Metralla Rosa con Carla Tofano
We are looking forward to you joining us for an informal and laid back ceremony to celebrate our love, partnership and marriage. It is also the perfect excuse to come and visit us in the stunning city of Lecce, and to share our wonderful new life with us for a few days. Lecce and the surrounding coast is well worth a visit for anything from two days to a week, or more. Please come with whoever you want – family, partners, friends – and enjoy the city and area we now call home.
The plan is to hold the ceremony in our flat and on our roof terrace on Sunday the 13th of April and then, in the days before and after, have a series of informal gatherings, arranging to meet whoever wants to join us in various bars and restaurants around the city, with no pressure, should you want to make your own plans – indeed, we hope that you, and whoever you come with, treat it as a holiday and explore the city and region at your own pace and comfort.
Because we have been asked by a few people, we want to reassure you that we do not want – or expect – any gifts. Your presence and decision to travel to Italy is already all we could hope to ask for. Also, there is absolutely no dress code.
Closer to the time we will set up a ‘read only’ WhatsApp group for everyone who has confirmed they are coming. If you don’t get added – or indeed, are added by mistake, despite telling us you can’t make it – please let us know. We will use this group to let you know what the plans are and where we will be over the course of the (long) weekend.
Saturday 12th April
We are hoping to go for drinks in a bar called Beija-Flor in Santa Caterina, about a 35 minute drive from Lecce. The plan is to leave about 4:30pm – we will confirm closer to the time via the WhatsApp group – and stay for the sunset. The bar is right on the sea and exposed (bring a jacket), so we will be weather dependent. If it is raining we will probably cancel and stay in Lecce.
We have booked a 39 seat minibus leaving from Porta Napoli in Lecce, which should be big enough, but if you have hired a car and are happy to drive, that will help us with numbers. We will, however, organise more transport if necessary. We may ask for a 10 Euro contribution per person towards the minibus, especially if we have to book a second one.
Sunday 13th April
The ceremony itself will take place on our roof terrace in the centro storico of Lecce. We suggest arriving at about 10-10:30. Our address is Piazzetta Arco di Prato 13, a five minute walk from Porta Napoli. Use this link for directions in Google Maps, as if you type the address in directly, it is not always accurate.
From there it is a two minute walk to a restaurant called Povero where we will have lunch. It is in Piazza Castromediano Sigismondo, opposite the Chiesa del Buon Consiglio. We have paid for wine, pasta and a tagliere (charcuterie) for each table. Should you want more, please order and they will create a separate bill for you.
Later that evening we will be in a bar called Queréncia – also two minutes from us – for drinks. We have no idea whether we will move directly from the restaurant to the bar, but I suspect there will be time between for a nap or a wander around Lecce. Again, we will have some money behind the bar, but once that runs out you will have to pay for your own drinks.
Before & after the weekend
For those of you who are arriving before the weekend or are staying on into the following week, we will let you know where we will be for meals or drinks via the WhatsApp group and you can join us if you choose to. Should you want to explore the area further, please ask for suggestions of where to go. We have also listed a few places below.
Brindisi (BDS)
Brindisi is the closest airport to us.
There are regular buses from the airport into Lecce – see timetable – and a one way ticket is about 7 euro, depending on whether you buy the ticket in advance or on the bus. Times for the buses may change on the 1st of April by a few minutes, so check back closer to the time.
You can buy your ticket in the newsagent in the airport. Turn left as you come out of departures and it is the first shop on the left. To get to the bus stop, turn right as you leave the airport and you will see four or five bus bays about 25 metres aways. The bus is direct to Lecce bus terminal and does not stop anywhere else.
Once you arrive in Lecce there are always taxis waiting at the bus stop, should you need one. Depending on where you are staying, you are most likely going to head towards the centre of town. Look for the Grand Hotel Tiziano and head towards that. Cross the road (there is a zebra crossing and, despite what you may have heard, drivers are incredibly good at stopping for pedestrians) and turn left. At the roundabout turn right and from there it is a five minute walk to Porta Napoli, the nearest entrance to the centro storico.
If you wish to get a taxi from the airport they should be waiting on the left as you leave the airport and should cost about 80-90 euros. Keep in mind they may not be able to drive you into the centro storico if that is where you need to go.
Should you just miss a bus and don’t want to wait for the next one or get a taxi, then you can also get a train into Lecce, though this is rarely quicker than waiting for the next bus. Exit the airport from the doors immediately in front of you as you leave customs and there is a local bus stop. This will take you to Brindisi train station, from where you can catch a train to Lecce. There is also a manned information post just in front of you (slightly to the right) as you leave baggage reclaim, where they can help you with transport questions.
If you have rented a car, we suggest you use a company – of which there are plenty – that is located at the airport. If you need to get a shuttle bus, chances are it will be about a 30 minute transfer and not worth the small savings you will make. For most companies, turn left as you exit baggage reclaim and walk down to departures, then exit the airport, and re-enter the next building – 2 minutes from baggage reclaim/customs. If, however, you have rented from ‘noleggiare’, with a bright pink logo, exit baggage reclaim and go straight out of the airport, turn right, left and right again, following the signs. You can’t miss them – it’s about a 5 minute walk.
Bari (BRI)
Bari airport is about 2 to 2.5 hours from Lecce.
Public transport is easy. Turn left as you leave baggage reclaim and exit the airport, then immediately enter the building in front of you. Go down the stairs and buy a ticket for the local train to Bari Centrale. It is then about a five minute walk to the platforms so ask or check on the screens when the next train is, in case you have to rush. They used to be able to sell you a ticket straight to Lecce, but the last time I tried, they couldn’t. It’s worth checking as this will make your life easier once you get to Bari. It is then about a 20 minute journey into Bari Centrale.
Exit the station up the stairs and then head diagonally and to the right towards the main station. You can’t miss it. Once there, buy your ticket to Lecce either from the machine (easy to use) or at the ticket office. You will need to take a number in order to join the queue at the ticket office. There are a few types of train to Lecce – Intercity or local. The fastest is about an hour and twenty and the slowest about one and three quarter hours. Obviously the faster train is more expensive, but both are good value, ranging from 12 to 25 euros. You will need to stamp – validate – your ticket before getting on the train. There are machines to do this all around the station and on the platform.
There is plenty of choice for car hire at the airport and the offices are all there as soon as you enter the main part of the airport. If it is a busy flight it may be worth sending someone ahead while you wait for bags, as the queues can sometimes get quite long.
It is about a two hour drive to Lecce.
The roads from Bari and Brindisi are fine, if a little tired. Speed limits on the motorway are 130 kilometres an hour and 90 on the smaller roads. Speed cameras are incredibly easy to spot, with signs and flashing lights letting you know you are approaching them. Everyone also slows down very obviously for them. There is a camera about five minutes out of Lecce as you approach from the airports. There are also several on the ring road around Lecce and on the road from Lecce to both coasts. There are often mobile cameras too on the 90 kph roads – these will always face direction of travel so you will see them and have time to slow down.
All city centres have a ZTL or LTZ (limited traffic zone). If in doubt, do not enter them. They are open at certain times of the day should you need to drive into town (Lecce is open from 10am to 1pm and 4pm to 7pm and closed all day Sunday), but do not leave your car inside or drive around outside of those hours.
Ask your hotel, AirBnB or us about parking. Most residential areas have free parking if you can find it. Painted blue boxes mean you have to pay at the machine. Although parking may seem chaotic there is a system. People do park on zebra crossings or in front of no parking signs (Divieto di Sosta & Passo Carrabile) but only when popping into shops. Do not leave your car there for extended periods of time or out of sight. It may not seem like it, but traffic wardens are quite common. Should you get a ticket, you can pay it in the parking meter (apparently – never tried!) or in the post office.
Lecce is stunning inside the Centro storico. The further you stray away from the centre, the less scenic it becomes! If you are staying outside of the centre, don’t worry – chances are you will be within walking distance and saving money on accommodation. It’s a small city that cries out for random meandering and getting completely lost. It is also a city where much of the beauty is above you on the balconies, roof terraces and window frames as well as any courtyards you can find your way into. The churches are stunning, but the bigger ones need a ticket, which you can buy in the tourist information in Piazza Duomo. Hopefully the weather will be sunny and warm and the swifts will have arrived in full force. They fill the skies in the morning and evening as you have breakfast or a glass of wine in the many restaurants and bars. Night life should be starting to pick up in the spring warmth so be prepared to eat late after an evening wander around town.
Bars & Restaurants
There are bars, cafes & restaurants everywhere but some streets and areas have more than others.
Flow is our favourite bar and we will probably organise some drinks there at some point, but if you go without us mention to them that you are here with us.
There is another lovely (very) small bar at the Officine Culturali Ergot with an independent bookshop and theatre that is worth a visit and browse.
The whole area around Santa Croce is full of bars and restaurants, but one bar we have been to a couple of times is Saloon Keeper 1933. For a cheap snack and local street food, try Pittule – deep fried heaven.
Piazzetta Santa Chiara is also a lovely spot for a drink or meal (we have eaten at Mad, Dall’Antiquario and La Cucina di Mamma Elvira, which are all good). From the Piazzetta Santa Chiara, if you wander towards Porta San Biagio, you will find lots more restaurants.
Another area full of bars and restaurants starts about here and ends about here. This is probably the best area for artiginal beers and small independent bars. Although all bars and restaurants in Lecce are small and independent.
There are also some great bars and restaurants outside of Porta Napoli as this is a student area and, being outside the centre, slightly cheaper. Head to Porta Napoli and walk in this direction.
If you want to try a Puccia (the local sandwich/bread) then we highly recommend Taula. Their food is fantastic and they also do an amazing tagliere, salads and pastas. Other places that do more traditional – and less gourmet – puccias that we have tried are L’Angolino di Via Matteotti, Al Fanfulla and Mezzo Quinto, where they also serve another local speciality, horse meat…
Some of our other favourite restaurants are 00 Doppiozero, Vico dei Sotterranei and I Latini (slightly more expensive). Polpetta (booking required) & 300Mila are also very good but slightly outside of the centre.
And, finally, another local speciality are Pasticciotti. You can buy these anywhere, but for more upmarket gourmet ones, try Martinucci.
Ice Cream
For the best ice creams go to either Sensi or Gelatario, followed closely by Natale and Tentazioni.
Churches
Lecce is full of churches. As mentioned above, you will need tickets for the larger ones. These are, off the top of my head, Il Duomo, Santa Croce and San Matteo but you will find plenty more. For such a small city, there are a lot of stunning churches.
The castle – Castello Carlo V – is also worth a visit.
Beaches
If you are looking for beaches and nature, then here are a few spots. Check with us though for more accurate directions or parking spots. It will be too cold to swim unless you are into cold water, but it is still worth visiting the coast if you can.
Porto Selvaggio is a small nature reserve and well worth a visit, especially if you are on that side of Puglia visiting Santa Caterina, Santa Maria al Bagno or Gallipoli. It is also right next to the bar we will be having drinks at (weather permitting) on Saturday evening, so if you have a car it may be worth heading that way early. Park around here and, facing the sea turn right. Walk about 50-100 metres and you will see a path climbing the hill on your right. Follow that up to the tower and viewpoint. Then, with the tower behind you, head into the wood. After a few minutes you will see some stairs going down towards the beach. Enjoy!
There are many other beaches including the sandy Lido Conchiglie and Punta della Suina (park here).
On the Eastern coast you can try Baia dei Turchi (park here and head north out of the woods and walk about 15 minutes). You can also go straight to the sea from where you park to a smaller cove and beach.
The Grotta della Poesia (Cave of Poetry) is also worth a visit as is Marina Serra and a few other spots on the Eastern coast that are listed below (Castro & Otranto)
Gallipoli
Gallipoli is a beautiful, busy port. Park here (paid – sometimes), buy fresh fish, wander around the tiny streets and have a paddle in the sea. This is our favourite bar to sit and enjoy the views of the sea and beach below, though the food is only average. If you want an amazing pizza, try La Corte.
Galatina & Nardò
Like Gallipoli. Nardò and Galatina are south of Lecce and towards the west coast of Puglia. They are worth popping in to on the way to the coast as the city centres are small and beautiful. Galatina is known as the birth place of the pasticciotto, so if you are a fan it’s worth a visit just for the chance to sample some.
As with Lecce, the centro storico limits access to cars, so park outside and walk in. For Nardò, this is a good area to park.
Otranto & Castro Marina
Otranto & Castro are beautiful towns on the east coast of Puglia and can both easily be visited in a day. Park here in Otranto and it is about a ten minute walk into the centre. Covo Dei Mori is a lovely spot to have a bite to eat or a drink and the Cattedrale di Santa Maria Annunziata contains a crypt full of the bones and relics of the Martyrs of Otranto in the far right corner of the cathedral.
Castro and Castro Marina are about a 30 minute drive from Otranto. You will probably have to drive between the two as Castro is perched high above the marina. We recommend eating at the Friggitoria Porto Vecchio in the marina and, if the weather is good and the they are open, taking a pedalo out to sea.
Ostuni
Ostuni is another stunning town, perched on the top of a hill about 8km from the sea and about an hour from Lecce. Definitely worth a visit if yo have time.
Polignano al Mare
Polignano sits high above the sea, teetering on the edge of the cliffs. It is breathtaking. When wandering around the old town make sure you always head towards the cliff edge for the hidden viewpoints. This should be a good place to park, though there are probably better spots. There are lots of good places to eat, of course, but we enjoyed the Caffè Dei Serafini. Don’t be tempted to sit outside, go in and try and get a table by the window – the views are crazy. If you can’t, then go inside just to see out of the window. Polignano is also home to the famous Grotta Palazzese restaurant and hotel. If you want to treat yourselves to one special meal, then this should be it. We haven’t eaten there, but we recommend you book in advance and perhaps go slightly out of peak time to ensure you get a table on the edge of the cliff! We are told that although the food is incredibly good, it is more about the location and experience.
Monopoli
Monopoli isn’t far from Polignano and while it isn’t as dramatic, it is bigger and has more to see, including a beautiful old town and harbour.
Alberobello
Alberobello is almost a living museum. It can get incredibly busy, but you should be fine this time of year. The main attraction are the Trulli and it is a very picturesque town. It is about an hour and a half from Lecce and reasonably close to Monopoli, Polignano and Ostuni.
Matera
Matera is the furthest away from Lecce (two and a half hours drive), yet probably the place most worth seeing. It is considered to be one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world and the sense of history is mind blowing – from the caves in the cliff faces in the distance to the small, uneven paths that wind between houses carved into the rocks and the ‘newer’ town looking down on them. We usually park here (it’s a paid spot and you’ll need to enter your number plate and parking bay number into the machine), and wander towards the Sassi, here. From here we suggest you get lost in the maze before you – although the Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista is worth a visit before you drop into the Sassi. There are two areas of the Sassi so if you head towards 5 Lire – a lovely little cafe and restaurant – you can see the second bowl below you. If you decide to have a bite to eat here, be sure to try and get a seat on the balcony where you will be perched over the Sassi with a spectacular view of the town and the caves in the distance.
Bari
Bari is the largest city in Puglia and is a couple of hours from Lecce. As usual, the centro storico is beautiful and full of character. The easiest way to see it is probably by train from Lecce, as driving into town and parking will be a pain. If you are flying in or out of Bari and have time, then it is worth wandering into town before catching your next train to the airport or to Lecce. There is a left luggage on platform one of the main station, should you wish to go for a wander.
And, finally, a word of warning – If it is raining, please be careful, as the pavements become incredibly slippery.
We look forward to seeing you all. Thank you so much for coming all this way to see us and our beautiful Lecce. If you have any questions, please drop either of us a message.
Toby & Carla x
Sorry, no translation is available for this content
Esperamos que nos acompañen en una ceremonia informal y relajada para celebrar nuestra union, nuestro amor y nuestro matrimonio. Es también la excusa perfecta para presentarles a todos la elegante y preciosa ciudad de Lecce, y para compartir nuestra maravillosa nueva vida durante unos días de floreciente primavera. Asistan con quién deseen: con su familia, pareja, o amigos, y disfruten del rincón del mundo que hoy llamamos hogar. Lecce y sus alrededores merecen una visita y nos enorgullece ser el motivo que los traerá a descubrirla.
El plan es celebrar la ceremonia en nuestro apartamento y en nuestra terraza el domingo 13 de abril. Después, los días previos y posteriores, tendremos una serie de reuniones informales, en los que quedaremos con quienes quieran acompañarnos en varios bares y restaurantes de la ciudad. Sin presiones de ninguna naturaleza, podran organizar sus propios planes si lo prefieren. De corazón esperamos que ustedes y quienes los acompañen consideren perfecta esta oportunidad para exploren la ciudad y la región a su propio ritmo y con toda tranquilidad.
Como varias personas han preguntado, queremos que sepan que no esperamos regalos. Su presencia y la decisión de viajar a Italia es el regalo. Tampoco hay ningún código de vestimenta. Por favor “Come as you are”.
Más cerca de la fecha, crearemos un grupo de WhatsApp de solo lectura para todos los que hayan confirmado su asistencia puedan recibir información y estar en la misma página. Si no te agregan, o si te agregan por error a pesar de habernos dicho que no puedes asistir, por favor, avísanos. Usaremos este grupo para informarte acerca de nuestros planes durante el fin de semana (largo).
Sábado 12 de abril
Esperamos ir a tomar algo a un bar llamado Beija-Flor en Santa Caterina, a unos 35 minutos en coche de Lecce. El plan es salir sobre las 16:30 (lo confirmaremos más cerca de la hora por el grupo de WhatsApp) y quedaremos para ver la puesta de sol. El bar está justo sobre el mar (lleven una chaqueta), así que dependeremos del tiempo. Si llueve, probablemente cancelaremos y nos quedaremos en Lecce.
Hemos reservado un minibús de 39 plazas que saldrá de Porta Napoli en Lecce, que debería ser suficiente para todos, pero si has alquilado un coche y te apetece conducir, nos ayudará a tener más espacio para quienes no tengan coche. Sin embargo, organizaremos más transporte sí termina siendo necesario. Podríamos pedir una contribución de 10 euros por persona para el minibús, especialmente si tenemos que reservar un segundo viaje.
Domingo 13 de abril
La ceremonia tendrá lugar en nuestra terraza en el centro histórico de Lecce. Recomendamos llegar sobre las 10:00-10:30. Nuestra dirección es Piazzetta Arco di Prato 13, a cinco minutos a pie de Porta Napoli. Usen este enlace para obtener indicaciones en Google Maps, ya que escribiendo la dirección directamente no siempre obtendrán indicaciones precisas.
Desde allí, son dos minutos a pie hasta un restaurante llamado Povero donde almorzaremos. Está en Piazza Castromediano Sigismondo, frente a la Iglesia del Buen Consejo. Hemos contemplado una selección de platillos regionales, un tagliere (charcutería) y vino para cada mesa. Si desean alguna opción adicional, por favor, ordénenla personalmente y les prepararán una cuenta aparte.
Más tarde, la noche del domingo estaremos en un bar llamado Queréncia, también a dos minutos de nuestra residencia. La idea es cerrar el día coctel en mano y con musiquita. No sabemos si iremos directamente del restaurante al bar, pero sospechamos que habrá tiempo para echarnos una siesta o dar un paseo por Lecce antes de juntarnos de nuevo. Nuevamente, los primeros cócteles irán por cuenta nuestra, pero una vez que se acabe el crédito con el que quede abierto el bar, cada cual tendrá que pagar por sus bebidas.
Antes y después del fin de semana
Si llegas antes del fin de semana o te quedas la semana siguiente, te informaremos dónde estaremos para comer o tomar algo a través del grupo de WhatsApp y podrás unirte a nosotros si así lo deseas. Si quieres explorar la zona con más detalle, no dudes en pedirnos sugerencias. Por lo pronto hemos incluido algunos lugares a continuación.
Brindisi (BDS)
Brindisi es el aeropuerto más cercano.
Hay autobuses regulares desde el aeropuerto hasta Lecce (consultar horarios). Un billete de ida cuesta unos 7 euros, dependiendo de si se compra con antelación o en el autobús. Los horarios de los autobuses pueden variar unos minutos a partir del 1ero de abril, así que volveremos a consultarlos cuando se acerque el día para daros los horarios actualizados.
Se puede comprar el ticket del autobús hacia Lecce en la ‘Tabaccheria’ del aeropuerto. Al salir de la zona de salidas necesitas girar a la izquierda: la primera tienda a la izquierda es la Tabaccheria. Para llegar a la parada de autobús, debes girar a la derecha, al salir del aeropuerto, y allí verás -como a 25 metros- cuatro o cinco paradas de buses. El autobús que va a Lecce va directo a la terminal de autobuses de Lecce y no para en ningún otro lugar.
Una vez que llegue a Lecce, siempre hay taxis esperando en la parada, por si los necesitan. Dependiendo de dónde se alojen, lo más probable es que se dirijan al centro de la ciudad. Busquen el Grand Hotel Tiziano y diríjanse hacia allí. Crucen la calle (hay un paso de cebra y, a pesar de lo que haya oído, los conductores son increíblemente respetuosos de las areas peatonales) y gira a la izquierda. En la rotonda, gire a la derecha y desde allí son cinco minutos a pie hasta Porta Napoli, la entrada más cercana al centro histórico.
Si deseas tomar un taxi desde el aeropuerto, a la izquierda veras que hay taxis disponibles y te costará entre 80 y 90 euros. Tengan en cuenta que es posible que no puedan llevarlos al centro histórico si es allí donde necesita ir porque a ciertas horas el acceso de autos a la ciudad, queda restringido.
– More to follow (see English for full text) –